Fig. 1 -Strap buttons come in an amazing array of shapes and sizes.

For most performers, it's essential that a guitar has strap buttons (Fig. 1). Though many guitars come with strap buttons already installed, some don't. If you have a guitar without strap buttons and want to install them, the good news is it's a straightforward job—if you know the correct procedures.

There are two critical considerations: The first is to find the right location. If strap buttons are installed incorrectly, your guitar won't balance well when you play standing up. The second consideration is to be very careful when installing a button on the neck heel—you can crack it. So, using both an acoustic and an electric guitar to illustrate the process, let's find out how to do this right and avoid those potential problems.Our instruments. Recently, a client brought in two guitars: a Larrivée OM-03 Vintage Sunburst and a 2002 Gibson SG Supreme. The Larrivée already had an endpin, but it lacked a strap button. The owner wanted me to install one so he could stand when playing onstage. For the SG Supreme, he wanted me to replace the stock buttons with a set of locking devices, so he could safely rock out with his band. For the Larrivée, we decided on a standard nickel-plated strap button and felt washer from Allparts; for the SG Supreme, we chose Schaller Security Locks.One caveat. My client wondered if adding a strap button would devalue his acoustic. On most modern flattops, a correctly installed strap button won't devalue the instrument (two exceptions are high-end vintage guitars or classical guitars). A strap button is useful for working musicians, and most guitar manufacturers will offer to install one before the guitar leaves the factory. Another reason to add a strap button to an acoustic is that tying a strap around the headstock (the old-school approach) can damage the finish, and in some cases, add unnecessary pressure to the neck joint. There's a lot of debate about this. Most collectors would never want anything installed on a guitar that was not considered original, so if you have a vintage axe keep this in mind.Selecting the location. Fig. 2 (left) To install a strap button on the treble side of a flattop's neck heel, you need to take two measurements. One is the distance down from the fretboard. Fig. 3 (right) The second measurement is the distance away from the body. Let's begin with the acoustic. The first step is to decide where to install the strap button. For the Larrivée, I determined that the best location was on the treble side of the neck heel about 1 1/4" below the top of the fretboard (Fig. 2) and about 1 1/2" out from the body (Fig. 3). I selected this spot for balance and structural integrity: This placement will keep the guitar from leaning away from you when you play, and this part of the neck heel is very stout, so you won't have to worry about cracking the heel—assuming the button is installed correctly, as we'll discuss in a moment.Fig. 4 - Mark the strap button's location by pressing the screw tip into the wood. Once you've made these two measurements and located their intersection, mark it. You can mark the location using a pencil or gently press the strap button screw into the heel (Fig. 4). Tip: If you use a screw to mark the drilling location, be careful not to slip—you could scratch the heel.Selecting the drill bit. The goal is to drill a hole that's slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the screw. If you use a drill bit that's too big, the screw will strip the wood and the button will not hold properly. Most strap button screws are relatively close in size, but they do vary depending on the manufacturer. Make sure you measure both the threads and the screw shaft so you know what size drill bit to use. For example: The outside diameter (including threads) of my strap-button screw was 9/64", and the shaft (without threads) was about 7/64" in diameter. By choosing a 7/64" bit, I left enough wood for the screw to tap (or thread) itself into the heel without damaging it.​Gauging drill bit depth. Fig. 5: Measure drill bit depth, then mark it with a red Sharpie. With the screw inserted into the button, measure the depth needed for the screw and mark your selected drill bit with a red Sharpie (Fig. 5). This way, you'll know how deep to drill the hole. If you drill too far, you could hit the neck pocket. But if the hole is too shallow, you could crack the heel when you install the screw. Measure carefully and get it right.Drilling the hole. This is where all your measurements pay off. Remember, you don't have to push hard—let the drill and bit do the work. You simply control the process by keeping the bit aligned and watching the depth (Fig. 6).Fig. 7: Countersinking the hole with a Phillips screwdriver. Before you insert the screw, use a medium-tip Phillips screwdriver to countersink the hole you just drilled (Fig. 7). This prevents the finish from chipping around the hole when you insert and tighten the strap-button screw. After countersinking the hole, install the strap button with a small felt washer between the wood and metal. The washer prevents the strap button from marring or denting the finish and wood, and it looks nice.Fig. 8: Place a felt washer between the neck and button, then slowly tighten the screw until the button is flush to the neck heel. Voilà—a correctly installed strap button can add utility to a steel-string guitar (Fig. 8).​Strap-locking devices. Fig. 9: Each Schaller Security Lock consists of an integrated screw and button, a locking mechanism that attaches to the guitar strap, and a washer and nut used to secure the locking device to the strap. There are many different types and brands of locking devices on the market, but as I mentioned, my client wanted Schaller Security Locks (Fig. 9) for his SG. Once you've selected your locking hardware, it's crucial you measure the length of the included screws that go into the body and subsequently attach to the locking mechanism. In a moment, we'll see why.The work begins. Fig. 10: Comparing the length of the stock SG screw and button (left) with the Schaller screw. Installing the Schaller button on the SG's lower bout was easy because it was already pre-drilled for the original strap button I'd removed. Because the Schaller screws with their integrated buttons were longer than the original Gibson hardware (Fig. 10), I redrilled the hole to the proper depth using a 7/64" drill bit. So far, so good.Fig. 11: The Schaller screw is too long for the SG's neck joint—it might hit the truss rod. Ah, but the other strap button was a different story. On SGs, Gibson typically installs a strap button on the back of the guitar, right behind the neck joint. After I removed the stock button and measured the depth of the Schaller screw against the SG's neck joint (Fig. 11), I realized the screw would penetrate too far and possibly hit the truss rod. Yikes! This left me with two choices: see if I could use the original hardware, or shorten the supplied Schaller screw and integrated button. Fortunately the Gibson button fit inside the Schaller locking mechanism, so I decided to reuse the original screw and button, rather than shorten and rethread the Schaller screw. Once again, I included a felt washer between the body and button.​Loading the strap. Fig. 12: Attaching the Schaller Security Lock to the strap. One of the features that makes the Schaller system so secure is that the locking mechanisms attach to your strap. It's simple: Slip the strap-lock base into the strap's slit. Place the included washer over the device's shaft. Using a 9/16" deep-well nutdriver, tighten the nut over the washer (Fig. 12). This makes it nearly impossible for the locking mechanism to slip out of the strap. Rinse and repeat. To mount the strap to the guitar, simply pull up on each lock's post, slip the lock onto its respective button, and release the post to lock it to the button. [Updated 10/8/21]

There are two critical considerations: The first is to find the right location. If strap buttons are installed incorrectly, your guitar won't balance well when you play standing up. The second consideration is to be very careful when installing a button on the neck heel—you can crack it. So, using both an acoustic and an electric guitar to illustrate the process, let's find out how to do this right and avoid those potential problems.

Recently, a client brought in two guitars: a Larrivée OM-03 Vintage Sunburst and a 2002 Gibson SG Supreme. The Larrivée already had an endpin, but it lacked a strap button. The owner wanted me to install one so he could stand when playing onstage. For the SG Supreme, he wanted me to replace the stock buttons with a set of locking devices, so he could safely rock out with his band. For the Larrivée, we decided on a standard nickel-plated strap button and felt washer from Allparts; for the SG Supreme, we chose Schaller Security Locks.

My client wondered if adding a strap button would devalue his acoustic. On most modern flattops, a correctly installed strap button won't devalue the instrument (two exceptions are high-end vintage guitars or classical guitars). A strap button is useful for working musicians, and most guitar manufacturers will offer to install one before the guitar leaves the factory. Another reason to add a strap button to an acoustic is that tying a strap around the headstock (the old-school approach) can damage the finish, and in some cases, add unnecessary pressure to the neck joint. There's a lot of debate about this. Most collectors would never want anything installed on a guitar that was not considered original, so if you have a vintage axe keep this in mind.

Fig. 2 (left) To install a strap button on the treble side of a flattop's neck heel, you need to take two measurements. One is the distance down from the fretboard. Fig. 3 (right) The second measurement is the distance away from the body.

Let's begin with the acoustic. The first step is to decide where to install the strap button. For the Larrivée, I determined that the best location was on the treble side of the neck heel about 1 1/4" below the top of the fretboard (Fig. 2) and about 1 1/2" out from the body (Fig. 3). I selected this spot for balance and structural integrity: This placement will keep the guitar from leaning away from you when you play, and this part of the neck heel is very stout, so you won't have to worry about cracking the heel—assuming the button is installed correctly, as we'll discuss in a moment.

Fig. 4 - Mark the strap button's location by pressing the screw tip into the wood.

Once you've made these two measurements and located their intersection, mark it. You can mark the location using a pencil or gently press the strap button screw into the heel (Fig. 4).

Tip: If you use a screw to mark the drilling location, be careful not to slip—you could scratch the heel.

The goal is to drill a hole that's slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the screw. If you use a drill bit that's too big, the screw will strip the wood and the button will not hold properly. Most strap button screws are relatively close in size, but they do vary depending on the manufacturer. Make sure you measure both the threads and the screw shaft so you know what size drill bit to use.

For example: The outside diameter (including threads) of my strap-button screw was 9/64", and the shaft (without threads) was about 7/64" in diameter. By choosing a 7/64" bit, I left enough wood for the screw to tap (or thread) itself into the heel without damaging it.

Fig. 5: Measure drill bit depth, then mark it with a red Sharpie.

With the screw inserted into the button, measure the depth needed for the screw and mark your selected drill bit with a red Sharpie (Fig. 5). This way, you'll know how deep to drill the hole. If you drill too far, you could hit the neck pocket. But if the hole is too shallow, you could crack the heel when you install the screw. Measure carefully and get it right.

This is where all your measurements pay off. Remember, you don't have to push hard—let the drill and bit do the work. You simply control the process by keeping the bit aligned and watching the depth (Fig. 6).

Fig. 7: Countersinking the hole with a Phillips screwdriver.

Before you insert the screw, use a medium-tip Phillips screwdriver to countersink the hole you just drilled (Fig. 7). This prevents the finish from chipping around the hole when you insert and tighten the strap-button screw. After countersinking the hole, install the strap button with a small felt washer between the wood and metal. The washer prevents the strap button from marring or denting the finish and wood, and it looks nice.

Fig. 8: Place a felt washer between the neck and button, then slowly tighten the screw until

the button is flush to the neck heel.

Voilà—a correctly installed strap button can add utility to a steel-string guitar (Fig. 8).

Fig. 9: Each Schaller Security Lock consists of an integrated screw and button, a locking mechanism that attaches to the guitar strap, and a washer and nut used to secure the locking device to the strap.

There are many different types and brands of locking devices on the market, but as I mentioned, my client wanted Schaller Security Locks (Fig. 9) for his SG. Once you've selected your locking hardware, it's crucial you measure the length of the included screws that go into the body and subsequently attach to the locking mechanism. In a moment, we'll see why.

Fig. 10: Comparing the length of the stock SG screw and button (left) with the Schaller screw.

Installing the Schaller button on the SG's lower bout was easy because it was already pre-drilled for the original strap button I'd removed. Because the Schaller screws with their integrated buttons were longer than the original Gibson hardware (Fig. 10), I redrilled the hole to the proper depth using a 7/64" drill bit. So far, so good.

Fig. 11: The Schaller screw is too long for the SG's neck joint—it might hit the truss rod.

Ah, but the other strap button was a different story. On SGs, Gibson typically installs a strap button on the back of the guitar, right behind the neck joint. After I removed the stock button and measured the depth of the Schaller screw against the SG's neck joint (Fig. 11), I realized the screw would penetrate too far and possibly hit the truss rod. Yikes!

This left me with two choices: see if I could use the original hardware, or shorten the supplied Schaller screw and integrated button. Fortunately the Gibson button fit inside the Schaller locking mechanism, so I decided to reuse the original screw and button, rather than shorten and rethread the Schaller screw. Once again, I included a felt washer between the body and button.

Fig. 12: Attaching the Schaller Security Lock to the strap.

One of the features that makes the Schaller system so secure is that the locking mechanisms attach to your strap. It's simple: Slip the strap-lock base into the strap's slit. Place the included washer over the device's shaft. Using a 9/16" deep-well nutdriver, tighten the nut over the washer (Fig. 12). This makes it nearly impossible for the locking mechanism to slip out of the strap. Rinse and repeat.

To mount the strap to the guitar, simply pull up on each lock's post, slip the lock onto its respective button, and release the post to lock it to the button.

MG-400 houses 2 powerful DSP chips for high-definition White-Box Amp Modeling algorithm (TS/AC-HD) and Core-Image post-effects.

The Nu-X MG-400 is a value-packed modeler akin to his little brother, the MG-300. MG-400 houses 2 powerful DSP chips for high-definition White-Box Amp Modeling algorithm (TS/AC-HD) and Core-Image post-effects. Since releasing the MG-300, people have been blown away by the sound and playability, not to mention the ease-of-use tone tweaking and intuitive interface. And now, the MG-400builds upon the MG-300 feature set moveable signal blocks, extra 12 IR COLLECTION slots, flexible P.L block with MIN & MAX parameter setup, send/return fx loop, abundant SYSTEM MENU, and physical master volume knob, MG-400 is now the best value modeler for the money.

The white-box algorithm offers realistic playability and analog-chaos response. The concept of "Chaos makes the muse" perfectly applies to the analog circuit. When you tweak the knob, it affects itself as well as other parameters. For a linear digital system, the parameter is independent. The white-box algorithm offers real-time feedback, increment-by-increment. Nu-X TS/AC-HD replicates the same playability most guitarists crave in a real tube amplifier.

​MG-400 offers 512 samples of IR, you can also load 3rd party IR files through the editor software. The included 25 guitar cab IRs combine 4 classic microphones with 3 mic positions to allow beginners an easy way to jump into the multi-effects experience. Also included are 8 bass cab IRs and 3 acoustic guitar IRs, giving you the ability to play bass on MG-400 or use an electric guitar to simulate acoustic guitar sound.

Nu-X MG-400 carries a street price of $219.

For more information, please visit nuxefx.com.

Music Nomad introduces a patent pending Grip One, alongside the Humitar One, an all-in-one humidifier and hygrometer.

No feature is overlooked, starting with the precision bearing design they invented in 2016 that makes turning the handle effortless, silent & super fast. The innovative rubber-lined head smoothly & silently slips over your tuning pegs for a scratch-free & clank-free operation compared to traditional plastic peg winders. The contoured head design fits virtually all tuning pegs both big & small, & its narrow profile keeps you from hitting close-fitted pegs on electric guitars. The ergonomic & non-slip rubber grip handle gives you total control & comfort. Cutting strings is a cinch! Whether big or small, use the high-quality carbon steel String Cutter to effortlessly cut through all string types. Ready to pull pins? The Bridge PinPuller's innovative universal design allows you to pull acoustic guitar bridge pins easily. Simply slide under the pin & pull straight up. Grip One is perfect for electric & acoustic guitar, bass, banjo, mandolin, ukulele & orchestral strings. Don't lose it or loan it, you'll look forward to the next time you change your strings.

MusicNomad has developed an easy-to-use, no mess, low maintenance guitar humidifier and a humidity and temperature monitor that is simple, accurate, and reliable. The Humitar One safely releases moisture evenly to eliminate potential problems such as warping, shrinking and, worse yet, cracking. The Humid-i-Bar reusable sponge holds a lot more water than the competition. This means less monitoring on your end while, resting assured, your fine guitar is cared for.

To ensure your guitar is in the safe zone, the Humitar One accurate sensor monitors your string instrument's environment every 20 seconds and gives you the humidity and temperature readings on its LCD display. It also gives you the maximum and minimum range over the period you are measuring and can be reset at any time. The Humitar One comes with many cool features such as a reminder of the humidity and temperature safe zone at which you want to keep your string instrument, a long-lasting AG 13 battery, and Fahrenheit or Celsius readings.

Grip One: Available October 24, 2022 - Suggested Retail $16.99 - $19.99 USD

Humitar One: Available October 24, 2022 - Suggested Retail $29.99 - $34.99 USD

For more information, please visit musicnomadcare.com.

Using high-speed signal processing with a dedicated DSP and analog & digital audio circuits we perfected over time, this compact unit attains high sound quality.

A compact, but epoch-making digital delay with multiple filter functions. Using high-speed signal processing with a dedicated DSP and analog & digital audio circuits we perfected over time, this compact unit attains high sound quality. This unit’s tone filter can process the delay sound to have a rich tone or conversely adjust it to be far from the original sound. The proprietary COSMIC filter creates an effect sound reminiscent of outer space, adding a new color to your delay sounds. Utilizing a new method, the newly developed reverse delay succeeds in producing a smoother, more musical reverse sound. In addition, we added a new function to adjust the number of output bits of the delay sound in 1-bit units, from smooth and high-quality 24-bit to rough 8-bit sound that contains distorted noise when the volume is lowered. You can reproduce the nuances of the delay sound used in the 1980s and 90s, and even the delay sound with the bit crusher effect applied.

COSMIC WAVE carries a suggested retail price of $318.18, and is available now through their North American dealers. For more information, please visit freethetone.com.